La grande rivière ; l'histoire d'un voyage sur le Yangtze Kiang . chapeau les devilput là. Kueifu gorge marque la fin de l'âme-thrilHng partie du voyage à Chungking exceptthque sur le chemin du retour, le voyageur a tout à nouveau, dans de nouveaux aspects. Il voit les rochers apparemment fermés devant lesquels le bateau semble roushingwith grande rapidité. Mais juste au point de danger, le Yangtze se révèle, en se défaisant autour de l'angle dans une nouvelle scène et vers un nouveau mur au-delà. La gorge de Theshort Mitan s'est avérée plus habitable lors du voyage de thereburn. Alors que nous avons balayé dans sa stretch rectitude

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The great river ; the story of a voyage on the Yangtze Kiang . hat the devilput them there. Kueifu Gorge marks the end of the soul-thrilHng part of the journey to Chungking exceptthat on the way back, the traveller has it all overagain, in new aspects. He sees the apparently closedrocks ahead into which the boat seems to be rushingwith great rapidity. But just at the point of danger, the Yangtze reveals itself, sUpping around the cornerinto a new scene and toward a new wall beyond. Theshort Mitan Gorge proved itself more lovable on thereturn journey. As we went sweeping into its straightstretches, our ship speeding along with the current ata rate of 22 knots an hour, the cool wind came tomeet us and swept the deck of all the lurking lazybreezes of the upper reaches. It was a thrillingvoyage. On the second day at noon we steamed downmajestically on Ichang, made a skilful turn, rested onthe current like a hovering bird, and dropped anchorbefore the Yangtze had a chance to pick a quarrelwith us for not continuing our swift ride with her onto the sea.. CHAPTER XX KUEICHOWFU AND WaNHSIEN The first large city above Ichang at which up-river boats call is Kueichowfu. It is just aboveKueifu Gorge. The moment the traveller sees it heknows that here is something, the like of which hehas never before dreamed of. A high crenelated wallundulating with the ridges of the hills faces the water-front. Behind it and close against it are seen theupper parts of quaint buildings and temples—all yellow, dull red and weather-beaten blue—coloured in allthe rich tints of an ancient artistic brush and the addedones that age has given them. Before the wall, whichis approached from the waters edge by streets ofsteps, are the tottering structures where the riverineChinese make their homes. Down the steps comeladen coolie labourers. Along the wall perch lazysoldiers looking down on the one side to the quiet, ancient city, on the other to the swarming, busy, shipping population. Here we bought cho

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